If you do only one thing in Benaras, take a boat cruise past the ghats at dawn ; you can repeat this at sunset or, better still, head for Dasashwamedh Ghat to watch the Ganga Fire Arti. For 45 minutes, young Brahmin priests perform age-old prayer rituals with conch shells and burning braziers accompanied by drummers, while children hawk candles for you to light and set adrift. Aside from these two must-sees, you should set aside some time to wander the ancient lanes of the Old City, particularly those centered around Kashi Vishwanath Temple -- but a few hours of picking your way past cow pats amid the incessant din of clanging temple gongs, not to mention striking out to view the 24-hour cremations at Manikarnika Ghat, are likely to have you craving peace and solitude.

Hire a car and visit Sarnath, where Buddha first revealed his Eightfold Path to Nirvana, and where you can spend a few hours exploring the archaeological ruins, visit a modern Buddhist temple, and admire the beautiful Indo-Greek and Mathura styles of Buddhist art and sculpture at the museum. Alternatively, stay in Benaras to explore the fascinating collection in the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum at Benaras Hindu University. Both experiences are enriched by having a good guide with you.

Ramnagar Fort (Rs 12/30¢; Oct-Mar daily 8am-noon and 2-6 pm, Apr-Sept daily 10am-5pm), the palace of the former Maharaja of Benaras, is billed as another worthwhile attraction. Although the actual palace is beautiful in a run-down sort of way, and the location (the only Benaras site on the east bank of the river) is lovely, the museum is filled with dusty, moth-eaten, decaying exhibits, such as the once-ornate howdas (elephant seats) that transported the royal family -- fascinating in a way to see such beauty so discarded. Do stop for a glance at the palace's grand Durbar Hall, though it's hard to see through the filthy windows. The lack of care says much about the dedication of the current young Maharaja.

Although he is said to involve himself in local tourism, his name certainly does not enjoy the reverence that the Maharajas of Rajasthan still evoke. That said, at press time, some renovations were underway, so do check for improvements. Last but not least of Benaras's fascinating sights, Bharat Mata, or Mother India Temple (located just north of the Old City) is worth highlighting, if only because it is the incarnation of the spoken Hindu belief that the very land of India is sacred (ironic, given the pollution). Pilgrims walk around a large relief map of the subcontinent before Partition, featuring all its holy tirthas, mountains, and rivers.

Benaras has produced some of India's most talented musicians (the great Ravi Shankar was born here; if you're unfamiliar with his genius, purchase without delay the CD Chants of India, produced by George Harrison -- highly recommended). Ask your hotel what performances are being hosted while you are in town, or head for the International Music Centre in Ganesh Mahal on Wednesday and Saturday (check with your hotel for exact dates and times) for live Indian classical music performances by up-and-coming artists. Naach Ghar (Bungalow no. 25, Cantonment, near SSP Residence; tel. 93354-93084) is another place that puts on a dance performance almost every evening around 7:15 for Rs 500 ($11) per head.